STEP 1: Base Colors

After priming the model black, I blocked in the base colors using the following GW colors:

Armor - Mithril Silver
'Gold' areas - Shining Gold
Armor Joints, Darker Metal - Boltgun Metal
Purity Seals, Skulls, etc.- Bestial Brown
Bolter Casing - Chaos Black
Eyes - Ice Blue

Try to get even coverage at this stage, because after the washes go on, it can be a bit tricky to do touch up work on areas that you may have missed.

I also do the basic layour for the shoulder pad at this stage, though it's not visible in this shot. I lay out the basic heraldry on the left shoulder pad using Skull White and Blood Red.

STEP 2: Shading

After the basecoat dries, the next step is to get some shading and definition using GW Badab Black wash. The wash not only flows into the recesses and creates some niuce shaded areas, it also helps to tone down the shinyness of the Mithril Silver.

I use a brush to apply it as opposed to an airbrush or 'dipping' because it allows more control. While you want to get the wash into the recesses, it can be a bit trickier using it to shade the large flat areas. The idea is to tint the metallic areas without having the wash 'pool' on the model. Areas like the backpack, armor greaves, and shoulder pads are places to watch out for. Depending on how the area is drying, I will sometimes use the brush to soak up extra wash from the surface, or push it around a bit to make sure I get an even tone.

STEP 3: Highlights and Touch-Ups

After the wash dries, I go back over the metallic areas with Mithril Silver and touch up the edges. This really adds some depth to the model. I also touch any areas that may have gotten a little messy during the wash stage.

I also start to highlight other areas as well. The Skulls, Purity Seals, and scrolls get a coat of Bubonic Brown at this stage, leaving a bit of the Bestial Brown visible in the recesses.

I also tough up the eyes with a bit of Ice Blue at this stage as well.

STEP 4: Tinting the Armor

After the the highlight stage, and before the 'fiddly' detail work I give the armor it's distinctive 'blue' hue. I use a 1:1 mix of GW Asurmen Blue wash and water, applied with a brush to any metallic areas. I use the same brush method here to avoid 'pooling' that I used in step 2.

STEP 5: Detail Work

Now it's down to the tedious stuff.

Purity seals and skulls get a final highlight of Bleached Bone. The purity seals and parchment areas then get text written on them using thinned down Chaos Black.

I re-apply the red to any areas that need it so they really 'pop', and the casing for the Storm Bolter gets an edge highlight of Codex Grey.

The final design of the shoulder pad gets finished up at this point as well. Using Blood Red, Skull White, and Chaos Black as my pallete, I go over the basic design and fill in the details, such as sword, skulls, and other designs. I also write the name of the Grey Knight on the shoulder scroll using thinned Chaso Black. If you find it too tricky to use a brsuh, they make fine tip pens that work just as well for writing names.

The eyes can be another tricky area. I add a dot of Skull White to the middle of the eye and then use thinned Ice Blue to add some 'glow' around the edges of the eye. This gives the effect of glowing eye lenses on the model.

STEP 6: Basing

For my Grey Knight, I opted to go with a slightly different basing scheme from my other armies.

Once the work on the figure is complete, I go over the base with Chaos Black to cover up any mess from working with metallics and washes. Once the Black is dry, I drybrush Codex Grey over the entire surface, followed by a second drybrush of Fortress Grey.

After the paint is completely dry, I apply dullcoat laquer to protect the paint and then add some static grass to give the base a little color.

Well, that's pretty much it. I hope you guys have found this tutorial useful.